So, you’re thinking about going solar? Good move. But before you jump in headfirst, there are a few things you need to get straight. Solar is not a one-size-fits-all deal. The system that’s perfect for your neighbour could be a total dud for you.
Let’s break it down. The first step? Understand your energy needs.
Related Guide
Buying Solar 101 > Start here
Beginner solar questions answered
Table of contents
1. Understand Your Energy Needs
What type of solar are you really buying?
Not all solar installs are built the same. Here’s a quick look at the types of jobs you’ll see out there:
| Category | What You're Getting | Worth Considering? |
|---|---|---|
| Garbage Solar | Rock-bottom price, cheap panels, rushed job. Warranty? Good luck. | ❌ No way |
| Budget but OK | Basic but decent gear. Quick install, little follow-up service. Fine for simple homes. | ✅ On tight budgets |
| Happy Medium | Good balance of cost, quality gear, and service. Proper site visit, shading check, trusted brands. | ✅ Best all-rounder |
| Solar Craftsmen | Top-tier gear and flawless installs. Neat work, full support. Great for tricky jobs. | ✅ If you want the best |
| Pricey Pretenders | Pushy sales, inflated price tags, average gear dressed up as “premium.” | ❌ Avoid |
Sizing your solar system
Once you’ve worked out how much power you actually use, you can start matching it to a system size:
- 3kW system → 11–13 kWh per day
- 5kW system → 18–21 kWh per day
- 6.6kW system (most common in Aus) → up to 25 kWh per day
- 10kW system → 35–40+ kWh per day
The goal is to cover most of your daytime power use, then look at how much you can store in a battery or export back to the grid. Another pro tip is to oversize your system to future-proof your energy needs and further reduce your power bill.
👉 See our solar system size guide for more details.
Feed-in tariffs vs self-consumption
Most states still offer feed-in tariffs — a credit for sending your excess power back to the grid. But the rates aren’t what they used to be.
That’s why you’ll hear a lot about self-consumption. The more of your own solar you use as it’s generated, the more you save. Exporting is a nice bonus, but the real money is in shifting your daytime usage to when the sun’s out.
👉 Check our rebates and incentives guide to see what’s available in your state, and also how feed-in tariffs work for a more in-depth look.
2. Choose High-Quality Solar Equipment
Solar panels: not all the same
Not all panels are built equal. Some will keep pumping power for decades. Others will yellow, crack, and die after a few hot summers. Here’s what actually matters when comparing:
Efficiency – Higher efficiency = more power from less roof space. Handy if you’ve got a small roof.
Durability – A solid 25-year performance warranty (and a company that’ll be around to honour it).
Brand reputation – Stick with Tier 1 manufacturers approved by the Clean Energy Council.
Heat performance – Panels cop it in Aussie summers. Look for good temperature coefficients so they don’t fall over when it hits 40°C.
Yes, cheaper panels can look tempting. But usually that means shorter warranties, weaker performance, and you’ll be calling your installer back in a few years.
There are three types of solar panels, monocrystalline, polycrystalline and thin film. Each has its pros and cons. You don’t need to go into too much detail on these to make a decision, but if you want more information, see our guide on types of solar panels here.
👉 Check our solar panel brands guide for a deeper breakdown.
Inverters: the brain of the system
Your panels make DC power. Your home runs on AC. The inverter is the middleman — and if it fails, the whole system stops. Main types you’ll see:
String inverters – Cheapest and most common. Great for simple roof layouts with little shading.
Microinverters – One small inverter attached to each panel. Microinverters cost more than a central inverter, but will pay dividends if your roof has shade or odd angles.
Hybrid inverters – Set you up for a future battery without having to rip the system apart later. A hybrid solar system will save you money if you decide to add a battery later.
Spend the money here. A good inverter means better efficiency, better monitoring, and a longer-lasting system.
👉 We’ve got a full inverter comparison guide if you want details.
Mounting systems: the bit no one talks about
Everyone obsesses over panels and inverters, but the racking and mounting gear is what actually holds it all together.
Good mounting gear = corrosion-resistant materials, correct tilt, and wind ratings that suit your area. A dodgy frame can mean leaks, rattles, or even panels flying off in a storm.
Bottom line: Don’t skimp on the stuff you can’t see once the job’s done.
3. Factor in Roof Suitability and Budget
Is your roof solar-ready?
Not every roof is perfect for solar. A good installer will check all this during the quoting stage, but it pays to know what you’re working with:
Orientation – North-facing is best, but east/west still pulls their weight.
Shading – Trees, chimneys, nearby buildings… even the neighbour’s extension can rob you of output.
Roof size and condition – Tiny roof? Old tiles? You might need repairs or reinforcement before panels go up.
Angles and tilt – The “ideal” angle changes depending on where you live and how steep your roof is.
Budget: what should you spend?
Here’s the ballpark most homeowners end up in (after STC rebates):
- 6.6kW system → $5,000–$9,000
- 10kW system → $9,000–$14,000+
- Battery system → $8,000–$12,000 extra
The truth is, you don’t want to be the cheapest quote on the table. Cheap solar often means corners cut — and corners cut = headaches later. Pay a bit more for quality gear and a decent installer. A well-installed system can hum along for 20+ years.
👉 We cover this in detail in our solar costs guide.
Rebates and incentives
The federal Small-scale Renewable Energy Scheme (SRES) knocks a chunk off the upfront cost through Small-scale Technology Certificates (STCs). The bigger and more efficient the system, the more certificates you get, which = a bigger discount.
Some states and territories sweeten the deal with extra rebates or low-interest loans such as this battery rebate in NSW. Worth checking your eligibility — either on your state’s energy website or through a CEC-accredited installer.
4. Add a Battery Now or Later?
Home batteries are hot right now — and for good reason. They give you more independence from the grid, help during blackouts, and can push your bill close to zero. The downside? They’re still a big investment, and the payback period can be pretty long.
If the budget’s not there today, don’t stress. Ask your installer about a hybrid inverter. That way, you can add a battery down the track without ripping the system apart.
👉 Check our solar battery guide for costs, brands, and payback tips.
Keep an eye on your system
Most decent inverters come with a monitoring app. Don’t ignore it — it’s the easiest way to:
See how much power you’re generating.
Track how much of your own solar you’re using.
Spot faults or performance drops early before they cost you money.
👉 See our maintenance and troubleshooting guide for what to watch out for.
Don’t skip the quotes
Solar quotes can swing by thousands, even for the exact same system size. Always compare at least 3 quotes from Solar Accredited installers.
FAQs
Usually, yes. A 6.6kW system can cover around 25 kWh/day, which is plenty for most households. If you’ve got a pool pump, EV charger, or heavy daytime use, you may need to size up.
Most homes don’t — but it depends on your local council. Heritage areas or unusual installs may need extra paperwork. 👉 See our council approval guide.
Batteries are great for independence but payback is still long. Many homeowners install a hybrid inverter first, then add the battery when costs come down.
Good quality panels should keep producing for 25+ years. Cheap ones? You’ll be lucky to get half that.
Yes. Some states offer low-interest loans, and many installers offer green finance plans. 👉 See our solar finance guide.
